Day Five • 12 Tastes of Brooklyn
BROOKLYN HAS SO MANY SMALL-BATCH PICKLE MAKERS, you could write a book about them. Rick’s Picks, McClure’s Pickles, Brooklyn Brine, Sour Puss Pickles—so many to choose from, all with great taste combos and interesting stories behind their businesses. And then there are the sauces and relishes and condiments. Or how about a hot honey? I’ll keep sampling them all but for the holiday table, a girl’s gotta choose, so at least for now, here are my favorites for the feasts ahead.
Tipsy Quince and Cranberry Chutney, by Anarchy in a Jar
“The revolution starts in your mouth” is this small-batch producer’s motto, and her combination of two tart fruits with sweet whisky-soaked raisins in this chutney does just that. For the holiday, it’s perfect with poultry or game birds. Founder Laena McCarthy grew up making traditional jams with her family in the Hudson Valley and now makes 14 very flavorful chutneys and jams.
Cider Braised Onion spread, and Cranberry Pear Sauce, both by Saucy by Nature
Owners Przemek Adolf and Monika Luczak use locally sources ingredients to make spreads inspired by flavors they experienced during trips to faraway places. In the Cider Braised Onion spread, fennel and rosemary add a little bite to the sweet caramelized onions. Great with pork or poultry. The cranberry pear sauce is more tart than sweet, with a pinch of cardamom that adds complexity. Try it as a glaze for poultry or game birds, such as duck, suggests Saveur.com.
Buy online, at Dean & Deluca, and at small provisioners all around Brooklyn.
Hop-Pickle, by Brooklyn Brine Co.
I first tried this hop-pickle when owner Shamus Jones was giving out tastes at Eataly (you know—the Outer Brooklyn place run by Mario Batali). The pickle is the result of a collaboration with Dogfish Head Craft Brewery in Delaware. As Dogfish founder Sam Calagione tells it, he was sitting around one day drinking a 60 Minute IPA and snacking on some Brooklyn Brine pickles. He loved the way they tasted together and called Shamus. The Hop-Pickle is made with Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, caramelized onions and Cascade hops.
If you want to make pickles yourself, Brooklyn Brine holds classes on Saturday, noon to 3 pm, at their small Gowanus pickling factory. Sign up Wednesday by noon, for the Saturday class; firstname.lastname@example.org. Or you can buy their pickle-making kit at Whole Foods or Williams-Sonoma.
Look for Hop-Pickles at Whole Foods, small provisioners all around Brooklyn, or direct from the factory.
Brooklyn Brine, 574A President Street, Gowanus; 347-223-4345
Photographs by Basia Hellwig. Date stamp typographic design by Joy Makon Design. The font is Chalet Tokyo, by René Albert Chalet (a clothing designer), House Industries, 1970.